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4.0 Cost Estimates

4.1 Setup Estimates

Here is a rough estimate of what setting up a reef tank may cost.  Two cases are included: a 20g micro-reef and a 70g mini-reef. The estimates show the min and max for most of the common pieces of equipment. The estimates assume a standard type of filtration that is popular today. If a different setup is used, the price could be more or less. The equipment includes a tank with some sort of siphon/drain to a sump and then a return pump back to the tank. A protein skimmer is installed in the sump. This setup is similar to a typical wet/dry trickle filter except there is no trickle section with media. This allows the use of simpler, less expensive sump although a commercial W/D without media could be used. A trickle media could be utilized at greater cost although many reefkeepers think it is unnecessary. Keep in mind that prices sometimes vary geographically. Also, availability may vary. For example, reasonable Florida live rock will soon no longer be available (at least not for $2-4/lb).

The estimates include the cost of the initial set-up. There is also a section on ongoing costs. The ongoing cost will vary greatly, especially considering that you will stock your tank gradually. Keep in mind that you always end up spending more than you think you will. If you set up a reef, you will end up stopping at the hardware store and/or aquarium store for timers, extension cords, GFIs (a must!), buckets, hoses, and books, don't forget books. You should read a few books on reefkeeping before even planning your setup. An extra hundred bucks or three _is_ going to leak out of your wallet whether you plan on it or not.

Another factor is that more advanced equipment may translate into less or easier maintenance. You should keep in mind that if you go with inferior equipment, maintaining the tank will be more work. More expense will mean more automated equipment and less work. Also, some varieties of inverts require more exacting condition, more light, etc. Plan your purchases so that the stock you buy has a chance of surviving with the equipment you are using. If you have a bare minimum system, stick hardy items like soft-corals, polyps, mushrooms, etc. The minimum included is close to rock-bottom as far as an acceptable systems goes. It assumes that you are DIYing much of the equipment as cheaply as possible. The maximum in the estimate is in some areas a little extravagant but not unreasonable. A good system that is not extravagant could be put together for somewhere in between the two extremes. Perhaps, for 1.25 to 2 times the minimum, you would have a very nice system. Some areas are easier to cut-corners on than others and some of the initial cost may be incremental, like buying test kits as needed. Also, you may have some of the equipment already from previous set-ups or be buying it used. Seek out the advice of an experienced reefkeeper when planning and pricing your system.

4.2 Micro Reef - 20 Gallon

4.3 Mini Reef - 70 Gallon

4.4 Ongoing Costs

Additives - Most reefkeepers believe that some additives are necessary. At minimum, a buffer compound is needed to maintain the alkalinity. Also, some Calcium supplement such as Kalkwasser or Cacl2 should be used. A few trace additives like Strontium and Iodine/Iodide should also be added. The initial supply of these products will be around $50. The ongoing rate will vary depending on the size of the tank.

Water Purifier - If you go with a DI system, you will have to replace and/or recharge resin. An RO system will require periodic * replacement of the membrane and prefilters. In the long run, maintenance of the RO is likely cheaper.

Test Kits Reagents - You will need to replace reagents for the tests kits. Also, the minimum given above may not be adequate. The typical SW combo kits are not of low enough range for reef work. They will only be of use during the first few weeks of cycling/curing. That estimate assumes that you will acquire the better tests over time or have access to someone else's expensive tests should you need to diagnose a problem.

Electricity - You will need it to run the pumps and lights. It won't be insignificant. Electric costs vary. Check the KW cost on your electric bill. Add up wattage of all the equipment you are using, pumps 24hrs/day, lights 12hrs/day. Calculate what the electricity will cost. Don't forget cooling, in many areas, you will need either a chiller or will have to air-condition the room where the reef is kept. The lights will generate heat. At a minimum, your AC bill will also go up accordingly. Electricity cost for a mini-reef system could easily be a couple hundred bucks a year.

Water - In some areas, water is expensive. RO units waste several times what they produce in water. This could add a little more expense.

Salt - You may want to do water changes in which case you will eventually need more salt. Salt mixes run $10-$25 per 50 gallon mix.

Lights - Fluorescent tubes and MH bulbs wear out. Fluorescent tubes are usually okay for nine months to a year before spectrum shifts and output are reduced significantly. Some tubes, like actinics, may need replacement as frequently as every six months. Replacement MH bulbs is recommended about every one to two years (depending upon spectral shift and output degradation). Add up the cost of your tubes and figure in the replacement cost based on the estimated lifetime.

Stocking - This can really vary. You probably shouldn't have more than a couple fish in the micro-reef and not more than a handful in the mini-reef. The typical fish suitable for a reef will be from $10(small goby or blenny) to $30(small angel or tang). You could spend $300 on one purple tang though. Pieces of coral, decorative rocks, giant clams and other sessile inverts start at around $20 a piece and go to many hundreds a piece. Snails range from about $1/each to about $8/each and are recommended for controlling algae. Other motive inverts like shrimp range from about $10 to $30.

You probably should start with the snails as soon as the live rock is in the tank. You don't have to have any fish if you don't want any. You don't have to have inverts either although that is probably why you set up a reef tank. Just quality live-rock is very of nice to look at but sooner or later you will likely want something else in your tank. The invert stocking will be very incremental and should be.

It is not healthy to add a lot of stock at once. You can spread your stocking over several years. You could spend anywhere from say $100 to $750 on the micro-reef and $200 to $10,000 on the mini-reef.